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Crag climbing

before you head out to get high, come here....

always updating never done, if it isn't here... check back a little later.

Here's where a few rock hot spots to hit while you are in Washington or in  Oregon. If you are up for some great Alpine climbing, click here Alpine routes

 The following are quite a few of Washington and Oregon's Hot Spots!!!

The following areas are what we think you want to climb in Oregon and Washington, the "HOT SPOTS", some known and some not so known to everyone. We try to attach photos, notes, route information, location and directions to the area as we can. Since this is just our take on the areas, and sense everyone climbs differently, the actual routes you take are all up to you individually, we just might have some we recommend.

Though these are all great spots, some however you might want to approach with a brush. Before you go setting new routes in any area, make sure that you check with the local Forest service first, believe it or not, there are endangered species of flora indigenous to the area you are climbing in.

Need help on training? click here for info, otherwise... here you go.

Arizona

Red Rocks of Sedona

Notes: Boynton Canyon, Bell and Cathedral Rock contain what they call a 'Vortex' which is some sort of wind-tunnel or what they call for 'spiritual enhancement', whatever we just went for the climbing. The rock is hot so go early, much of it is just way fun and a good time. The approaches are relatively short and sometimes a little bit of a scramble but definitely worth the trip. You could stay a life time for a good month and still have plenty of rock to play on without getting bored, might be really broke but never bored.

Stay in Oak Creek, its just outside of "Sedona" and in the middle of all the climbing. It is also a little less expensive than being in Sedona proper.

Directions and location: Just drive to Sedona, which is about an hour drive North and slightly West from Phoenix. If you can't see the rocks you need to get a blind man's cane, the rocks are everywhere and right in front of your face. The access to each rock mass usually is marked by a trailhead or access point. You will need to buy a day or week pass at the local gas station to  access any of the area.

Oregon A to Z

Broughton Bluff, NE Portland

Notes: This is the place to go if you are serious about climbing. Fun stuff here. Most of the rock is complete Trad with top anchors, some is mixed Trad and with an occasional bolt here and there. Lots of potential for new stuff. Some routes can be easily top roped even though it's not noted in most guide books, many a trail up to the top, which means good walk off areas. Lots of friendly peeps up here, either that or I always hit it on a good day. The area is well protected from the sun, till you are flailing out on a rock, otherwise it's great for your belayer. For bouldering area see notes below.

Trad climbers will like this out of the way spot. It takes a small hike on awkward trail to get up there but definitely worth the effort. Routes range from a 5.6 on the Giants Staircase (or what I like to call the beached whale belly drag route) and some 20 foot walls too 160 foot, 2 pitch funky climbing and a couple 5.12b's. If you are a .10 to .11d Trad climber you'll love to play up here. While there are several routes that are on the easier and shorter side... most people have no clue what they are doing when it comes to Trad more difficult Sport routes, so it weeds out those who prefer easier beginning climbs. Broughton Bluff features 11 walls with a handful of smaller chunks of rock in between, some are a bit dirty, others totally clean. From Left to Right you will find the following walls. North Face (which is behind -->) Hanging Gardens (Left & Right), Red Wall, Bridge Cliff, Spring Rock, Bat Wall, Broken Rock, Trinity Wall, the Berlin Wall, Jungle Cliff and New Frontier Cliff.  

Directions to and location: From Portland head East to Troutdale on I-84, take the Lewis & Clark State Park exit. Follow the road South until you reach the main paved parking area just South of I-84. Park in this parking area. You can see a couple of the walls from the highway as well as the parking lot. The trailhead will be found just south of the restrooms, you will see it as you head toward the trees. Watch your footing, the trail can be slick and the odd case of Poison Oak is definitely out there.

Broughton Bluff bouldering area: This area threw us for a loop but we made it. To get here its about a little bit of a hike along near the tracks, about 45 minutes. Head from the same parking lot for the above area toward the bathrooms, pass them and continue toward the back corner near the fence, here is where you will hit the trail. The trail itself is a typical un-maintained climbers trail, watch your footing in some places. BRING A STICK WITH YOU!!! you will never under estimate the power of a branch, there are a ton of nettles all along this trail, just whack them, when you think you are past'em... there are more, however it makes for a good adventure. There will be a moment when you are hiking you will think "dude there is nothing out here" then you hit a small switch back and within a few minutes you are there. You'll see a big mass of rock globed to your left. Rock isn't the best but would be fun to play with. For your first time out a rope might not be a bad idea, landings aren't ideal, but what is. If you are bored and want to check it out... go ahead. We just came back and headed up the trail to the better rock on the bluff... the adventure is up to you.

Carver Bridge cliff, Oregon

NOTE: This area is off limits to just anyone. All the climbing is on private land but some of the nicer areas in Portland, everyone who climbs here has to have a permit. To find out how to get out there you first have to get a permit at the Portland Rock Gym. Once you get that, then they will let you know where to go.

Frenchman's Dome, West Mt Hood area

Frenchman’s Dome (not to be confused with Frenchmen’s Coolie in WA) – talk about a chunk of rock out in the middle of nowhere, this is it. In the view of Mt Hood lies a drive out some back road pass that takes you to this chunk of rock. Even when you are in the parking area, you still have no idea where this rock is. Literally a 60 second walk down a path and you are there. Most class 5 routes are Sport but there still exists one or two that have Trad potential, kinda sketchy but there. Routes range from 5.6 to a good 5.12, all single pitch, walls range 80 – 160 feet, 60meter rope just makes it on most routes. Several new routes have been added and some bolts have been replaced due to the wear and tear + weather. The rock sits just inside the trees with some sun exposure depending on the time of day. You can freeze while belaying and sweat while climbing, typical NW climbing. 

Because there are only a handful of routes, you can visit this area while hitting other rocks near Mt Hood. Something that is worth the trip though… everyone has to climb on this chunk of rock. 

Notes: Depending on the time of year you go, it can be a little damp and loose. Spring time is not the time to go. Because this area is located so close to the mountains it experiences the same freeze and thaw that they do. Best time to climb here is late Summer or early Fall. You will know by then that anything that is going to fall off has already done so. But because some of the area is crumbly, a helmet isn’t a bad idea especially for the belayer, I get nailed every time by some little chunk of junk. Don’t forget to take a camera up on one of the routes, Mt Hood just lies over the trees, a most spectacular view. 

Directions and location: Head East on US HWY 26 toward MT Hood. When you hit an area called Zig Zag you will want to look for Lolo Pass (FS road 18). We clocked it 6 miles from the start of the road to the parking area. You will follow the power lines up the pass to a legitimate parking area on your right. You will want to have a US Forest Pass to park here or you’ll get a present on your return. Park here, grab your gear and head down the path just to the left of the Trail sign and Honey-bucket. Within a few feet you’ll be there.

Meadow Bouldering area, Bend

Notes: Local Bend climbing routes are something to be treasured. These are just a few shots from some of the out of the way places here in Bend. There are no sport routes here... all good fun bouldering and trad. I guess you could try to find a tree to set up a top rope somewhere... but that would be cheating now wouldn't it. Most crack protection is up to 4 inches at least and as small as you can get - good variety. Plus you have the advantage of being right by the river so if need be you can walk on down dip in, cool off and walk back up the small hillside to the rock, just make sure you don't get swept away the river can move quickly.

Directions to and location: Go to Bend in Central Oregon, find Red Point climbing shop and ask for the directions. This area is locally prized by most Bend climbers so, if you are lucky enough to find the spot, you will be overjoyed to climb the rocks. Just make sure you stay long enough to take it all in. Also make sure you have a Forest Parking pass or you'll wind up with a ticket or a tow.

Rocky Butte, NE Portland

Notes: What can be said about Rocky Butte... "it's a good place to look at peoples trash & dirty magazines?" Actually the Butte is a place you can take someone to boulder that hasn't ever been on rock before, to get in shape during the spring or just to pass some time Buildering on old Prison House walls.

5th class walls leave something something to be desired. First the safest way to get to the belay points is to actually rap off the top of the wall and is considered mainly a top-roping area, not good for lead climbing. Then when you aren't tripping over trash that people toss off the top you are trying to find a good spot to climb while trying to make out the voice of your belayer through all the traffic noise. By the time you found your spot... you are wasted and realize you should have just drove to the top of the hill,  bouldered around the walls and took in the views. This isn't my favorite place to go but it is worth mentioning because people go there and use it to teach others to climb. The top walls are great for Buildering. The stones are set just right, you can hang around the lower wall or crawl out over the top walls just to freak someone out. It's always fun to see someone's face who is up there enjoying the views, looking at the mountains, airplanes etc... and someone comes climbing up the wall just behind them.

Directions to and location of Rocky Butte you head from downtown Portland onto I-84. Take the exit that will put you on 213, head North to NE Fremont and turn Right. Follow road and stay left at the Y on to NE Rocky Butte road. Just below the Bible Church big domes there is parking and the 5th class walls are directly below. For Buildering follow road to the top, you'll see the area just in front of you when you get there.

Smith Rock, Terrebonne, Central Oregon

Notes: One of "the mecca's" of all USA climbing. What isn't there to say about Smith. It's warm (usually very), it has beautiful rock (though not the greatest in parts), it has a ton of great single and multi pitch sport routes and people. There is plenty of trad as well as bouldering here. Smith is a beautiful place to climb, but yes there are people. Most of the peeps come out after a good nights sleep and a great long breakfast. The key to hitting the popular routes is to do them early in the day when everyone is still eating or head out away from the more popular areas. We prefer to do just that then eat a late breakfast while the heat of the day is setting in. Or head out out early, climb till we are done, eat sleep, wake up and do it again the next day. There are great shaded areas over around by the Lower Gorge, hit those in the afternoon when the sun hits the main walls, and also a good place to escape from some of the crowds. It has been common for people to wait in lines for routes, in the sun for several hours to get on some of these routes. Good planning is always a good strategy. To check current weather click here.

Camping is plentiful if you arrive early enough in the week. The cost is cheep and you get hot showers. Remember to pay for camping and parking right away or they will be quick to nail ya. The nice thing is, is if  you are camping your camp permit works for parking at the end of the road. Please DON'T COOK OR USE A FIRE near your tent or beyond the parking area. There is high risk of fire and it spreads fast. So don't be the idiot that we are all swearing at because you are risking the life of everyone in the canyon as well as potential long term permanent damage to the area.

Arrington Columns. Don't be misled by this one. Most say this is a crap area, ha! Yes there are some that you might just think twice about why you are over there, but get on the rock its well worth doing. Some go through a 4th class decent to the bottom, some just rap off the top. Some of the great climbs don't start rockin till the 2nd pitch here, like some of these, Off Tempo, Brothers child, Master Loony. The Upper Gorge area, if you are loving and into the tough stuff, don't pass off this area. There is some beautiful rock up in these parts as well as great routes. Middle Earth, Playing in traffic area and Ivory Coast are the areas to hit. The Northern Pont, over near Student wall. Remember this isn't named for teaching and learnin, its just named that because that's what they named it back in the day. This was one of the first discovered and climbed areas because it was the closest to old climbers parking lot. My personal favorite area is the Marsupial crags, there is just a fun easy 3 pitch climb on Koala Rock with a one pitch rappel that leaves you hangin... I LOVE THAT PART. It's a little bit of a hike back in there... but it is worth it.

It is very easy to come and spend a few days and forget what day you are on. Time is of no importance here, it just is and you just climb. Smith holds a special source of energy and awe even for those that don't climb. The scenery is like no other and the air is wonderful, just don't get in the Crooked River... it's toxic because of all the farm run off, you can tell by all the markings on the river rock. For more direct info on Smith go here to Smith Rock.com. This site also gives you updates on route information, closures, events and other news worthy items.

Directions and location: Head on HWY 97 to Terrebonne (near Redmond and Bend). Look for the Grocery store, climbing shop on the corner and take a turn East. Basically follow the signs to Smith Rock state park, and keep your eye on the massive amounts of rock in the background. You'll travel about 2miles total off 97, you can't miss it.

Washington A to Z

Beacon Rock, Columbia River Gorge, Oregon boarder

Notes: Here’s another chunk of rock for you to climb, you can’t miss it. Beacon Rock is just that a Beacon which sits 400 some feet on the Washington side of the Columbia River Gorge. Beautiful area for climbing, however limited in access. The area is closed from February 1 to about July 15 because of nesting Peregrine Falcons. Which is ok, the area is well worth the wait. If you can't, the NW area of Beacon is open all year.

You need to make sure you know what you are doing here at Beacon, this isn't the area for newbies or where you want to teach someone Multi-pitch. Beacon Rock consists of nearly 150 routes of which most are all Multi-pitch Sport. However Trad, Aid and mixed routes do exist. Most routes require a two rope rappel, no good walk off here. Speaking of mixed, the easiest rated routes are tend to be Multi-pitch or Trad, and the shorter routes, one pitch are of the more difficult. Exclaibur, Fear of flying, and Crusin are of the must do category. To get into the rock itself, look for the hikers trail, routes will start just beyond. Helmets are a must on Beacon, between the Multi pitch rope drag over trails and hikers kicking stones, you'll likely get a pebble in your eye. Also watch for Poison Oak... as usual.

Directions and location: Head West out of Vancouver on HWY I-205, stay on HWY 14 the distance from Vancouver is about 28 miles or so. Look for a chunk of rock on the Washington side of the river, that will be Beacon Rock. If you are in Oregon head West out of Portland on I-84, you cross the river at the Bridge of the Gods, look for the big fat rock on the other side, believe me you won’t miss it. Parking is limited and please respect the Railroad and Park rule about parking on the boat ramp and walking the tracks. Note the tracks are heavily used, don't get caught in the wrong spot at the wrong time.

Darrington, NW off I - 5

Note: Darrington is divided into 3 major areas; Three O'clock Rock, Green Giant Buttress, and Exfoliation Dome. All of which are great granite slab climbing. The rock here gives you the overall feeling of awe as you get when you are at Yosemite, big huge walls. But don't let that intimidate you from climbing here, there is plenty for you to climb.

Three O'Clock Rock is the easier one to get to. It's walls reach 700ft with great knobs for traction. Routes range here from 1 to 8 pitches, make sure you bring enough rope for the rappels, they can get quite long. Green Giant Buttress is another of the major walls with similar rock as the other area for killer climbing. Exfoliation Dome is the biggest of the walls. The shortest climb here is about 8 pitches. You're going to run into mainly trad routes here, however there are some bolted slab climbs. Consult a good climbing book before you head out, you wont' want to drive up here for nothin, it is quite remarkable.
 

Directions: To get to the climbing here in Darrington get on the Mtn. Loop Hwy SE  of Darrington, to the USFS Clear Creek road that turns off right just a few short mile out of town, and immediately before the Clear Creek Camping area, if you passed the camp area you missed the road. Follow the gravel road for about five miles, stay right when you have an option to stay on road 2060, soon you will run into the old Squire Creek Pass trailhead. Time to put on good approach shoes and don't leave anything in the car. From here and depending on which rock you want to climb you will head in different directions:

To get to Three O'clock Rock take the Squire Creek Trail heads you up through the trees and out to a cruddy fat talus field. Should take you no longer than 45 minutes. Right in front of you the trail runs directly into the chunk of rock called the North Buttress; a side trail leads from the boulders up and left to the South Buttress.

If you are going to Green Giant Buttress you will want to hike rest of road, which becomes a trail for about a mile then you jump a creek and try to find a path through the brush until able to traverse left (west) thru boulder field. Follow path along north bank of Copper Creek to base of a series of waterfalls. Find and ascend a dry creek bed leading north through a brushy section to the base of Green Giant Buttress (2,900ft).

However, Exfoliation Dome stands above the left fork of Clear Creek road, less than a mile past where it crosses Clear Creek, about five miles from the Mountain Loop Highway. Witch Doctor Wall is up on the left on an overgrown spur road about 1/2 mile past the bridge over Clear Creek, follow the stream, and look for a trail in the woods on the right. Blueberry Hill is a hike up a rocky washout that is the second of two gullies crossing the left fork of the Clear Creek road. Rock leads you to steep slabs of a Granite Sidewalk watch your step falls from here can be ugly, climb will mostly to the left.

Exit 38, Central I-90 Corridor

Many opportunities for whatever you are in for. Just a short hike up out of the parking lot and you hit the Ironhorse trail which takes you along several easy access routes or take some trails up and out for a little more adventurous day. This area consists of about 28+ walls with 100's of routes making it one of the most popular areas to climb.

Notes: Exit 38 consists of several areas packed with typical Cascade multi level climbing. There are several sections to this climbing area with routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.11's. Some can be top roped but can be tricky getting up to the anchors. Most climbing is sport single pitch. Some bouldering available off the Mt Washington trail. Some of the better climbing I believe to be here on the Mt Washington's walls, to get there take the first right into the parking. Follow a short trail up to the Ironhorse trail, follow to the right, you will find the Mt Washington trailhead on your left. There will be several walls and climbing trails as you follow the main route up. The higher up you go the more walls you will find, some of the access trails are a bit of a hike up, but trust the trails you'll get there. Deception area, if you just want some good after work routes there is plenty to do just off the Ironhorse, when you reach the top of the approach trail hang a left and you will find several walls to your right for the next 1/2 mile or so. The Far Side also takes you out to some fun climbing. If you want some big fat walls, some overhangs and good solid rock it will be worth the effort in getting here. A short walk across the Snoqualmie river will take you to the trailhead on your right. Follow the trail out, you will be able to see some of the walls but to get to them you will need to take the climbers trails to get to the base of the walls.

Directions to and location of Exit 38: you will run into exit 38  40-45 minutes east (38 miles) out of Seattle. Take I-5 to I-90 east, follow to exit #38 (past North Bend) right off of exit, follow to parking areas. If you wish to head up Mt Washington take the first right into the parking. Make sure you leave the parking area before it gets dark or they will lock your car in, this would not be good. The most popular and easiest access climbing area is about 1/2 way down the road near Change Creek. Just across the street from the parking area is a trail next to the bridge, follow this up to the Ironhorse trail. And the final climbing area which some call the Far Side, parking will be located after you cross under I-90 toward the end of the road. Trail map: Green Trails # 206/Bandera, Wa

Frenchman's Coolie/aka Vantage/Sunshine Wall/Zig Zag/the Feathers, Eastern, Columbia Gorge near I-90

Notes: Vantage has to hold a record for dense climbing population. Frenchman's is a great place to go if you don't mind the crowds, there is a ton to climb, so not much of a wait for some routes but there are just people. This is due to the fact that most of the rock is right off the road, easy access and fun fun sport routes and a few trad. You are climbing Basalt columns left and right, which is good and bad. Don't trust all your fixed pro, if it looks iffy... it is... use back up. If you look on the ground you will find a couple chunks of rock that have fallen, with it... is a bolt or two. Some are rather long (like on Sunshine wall) so don't skimp on the rope. It's happened more than once that I've run out of rope on a 60 meter, just a couple feet... but still. Sunshine wall is a short hike away and sits on the the backside of the Feathers. The access is a little tricky, but if you climb... you won't have any issue, it's just a snug squeeze for those of much larger stature. You can climb here pretty much year round if you don't mind the cold in the winter and the extreme heat in the summer. Because the walls are located on the Columbia river in the Gorge you get a varying degree of weather, but it is usually quite nice and you can pretty much find some area to climb that is worthy. The Feathers are closest and Green wall is a great place to learn to lead climb. Sunshine wall is just that... heat. If you want away from the crowds head back over to Fugs, Trapeze and Can't Win Walls

Also the area has spots that are covered with talus so watch your step as well as your head, bring a helmet so you don't get knocked in the noggin and wind up in the hospital or something less drastic. There is quite a bit of public notice in this area re:climbing because it is so popular here so try to keep locals happy when you run into them and respect all the notices regarding parking, camping etc.

Directions to and location: One of the more easy places to get to, I - 90 to Vantage. Head north on Silica rd way watch for parking areas near the turn, you can also come down via Baseline rd. You'll see the Feathers off the road as well as open parking areas. Follow trails to climbing areas, and if you don't know where you are headed just ask there is usually plenty of people around that will know where to head you.

Fossil Rock, Central Washington South of Tacoma/Spanaway

Directions to and location: Head south from Seattle toward Tacoma, take state Route 7 south through Spanaway, right fork on route 507. Cross the Nisqually River, turn at the first left and follow about a mile to the Four Corners intersection. From there head east on Bald Hill Road and follow it several miles to its intersection with Peissner Road SE, just past the fire station. If you are hiking in, take a left on Peissner Road and follow it just over 2 miles to a gated side road marked #4000. If the gate is closed, park just up and on the left (don't block the gate!) and hike in. Follow this road 1.7 miles to its intersection with road #1000, then follow spur road #1190 on the other side until you reach a mossy parking area/turn-around from where Clearcut Wall is plainly in view, Fossil Wall is long and mossy with several arêtes. Clearcut Wall is a small craggy knoll farther up the road.
 

Lewis River- East Fork, Gifford-Pinchot National Forest, E of Battleground

Waterfalls and rock walls, no better combo.

Notes: Since the Southern part of the Cascades is sorely lacking in the way of rock walls we are trying to find new areas for our liking. This one has yet to be 100% scouted, but if you are up for it you're on. The start of the trail itself is rather unmaintained, however it seems to be well traveled and opens up after the first mile or so. The trail follows the East Fork of the Lewis River and eventually follows the headwall a couple miles in, the trail ends near Lookout Mountain on the Forest Service Road #41, however there is no parking for entry off this road so you have to come in via the main entrance. The headwall is where you will want to look for a climbers path, if you don't see one... you'll likely make one. If you start hiking in the well noted lower falls campground you can see all three of the falls along the way ($12 a night). After a day of hot hot hiking in/out you might be daring enough to jump into the glacier fed falls... not sure about you but, I'd rather just rinse with a rag, that water is freaking cold.

Directions to and location From Carson drive about 8.5 miles north on Wind River road #30 to the town of Stabler and the junction of Hemlock Road, cross the river and head right (north) onto Forest Service road #54, go 6 more miles then turn left on Forest Service Road #42. Keep on going about 15 more miles to Forest Service Road # 42-514, turn left and go to the end of the road. The trailhead will be at the end of this road.  Trail map: #good question... I'm trying to find one.

Little Si/aka Exit 32, Central, I-90 Corridor

You can take Little Si alpine style or spend several days class 5 high wall craging, take your pick or do some of both.

This is a clip from a day in the spring of 2006:

Notes: Little Si though it be a short hiking trail for some, others of us have taken it to a different level. Many already know its fun 5th class climbing walls, others of us who were too tired of waiting for routes to come open decided to go another route, up the face, Alpine style. The face route can be a little tricky due to the year round moisture, shrubbery and difficult protection. However the issues at the time, you can always find a way up, be it 3rd, 4th or 5th class. One of the days we went up, it was a little bit of all 3. If you wish for a difficult but fun training route go for this. Gong only 3rd class (if staying to the right) each lap will take about 45 minutes to round trip, depending on what you are training for, usually 2 - 3 laps are good for a day. I know the photo doesn't look like much, but looks are very deceiving on this one.

5th class is all over the place, this is the hot spot for most local climbers after a work day or just because its to stinking close to home. Several walls 20 minutes up from the parking area just off the main trail are obvious. There are also several spots to hit all the way to the top. Several off trails will take you to more 'local' out of the way walls, good fun, World Wall 1 and World Wall 2 are the most popular spots. Most of the 8 main walls with 80+ routes, they are all sport routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.14b, single pitch good solid climbs and just minutes apart from each other. There was a slide just a few years back that took out a pretty good wall, but future potential for something else. Don't let that hinder your effort... just come and see for yourself. Little Si is divided into 3 major areas; British Isles (you come to first on the left side, which contains Repo 1 & 2, AWOL and Blackstone, Greenland (is next this contains Midland and The Woods) and New World (this is the last main wall on your left which contains the World Walls). If you hike up to the top there is a couple small walls with a couple fun moves, you'll see them, can't miss'em.

For Alpine style; you take the regular Little Si trail up to the billboard and take a left up toward the first rock climbing area. Follow the steep walk-off trail up through the rocks and just head up anyway you can. There are many variations as to how to go, I honestly can say I don't think I've gone up the same way very often. Once at the top - brisk walk/jog/run down the back side through the trees along the regular trail will get you back to were you started. Once down... do it again. This particular day we went... we came back down a similar way we went up, got in a few fun/tricky rappels. The day usually ends with a well deserved Beer. For more photos click here

Directions to and location of Little Si/aka Exit 32: Little Si is located about 35-40 minutes east (32 miles) out of Seattle. Take I-5 to I-90 east, follow to exit #32 (North Bend) left off of exit, follow past outlet malls, turn right on North Bend Way, follow through town to SW Mt Si road turn left. Follow crossing over the river and up just a few 100 feet will be an obvious paved parking area on your left. Take the trail up. Trail map: #206S Mt Si/NRCA.

 Mt Erie, San Juan Islands

Note: Nice location but, and an ok place of choice, watch for ticks early spring thru mid summer, I got 3, maybe that's why it's not my favorite place. However... there are beautiful views of the Puget Sound and eight or so major walls for climbing. There is a way to drive to the top if you just want to take in the upper climbing areas and scenic views. Also a great trail at that runs the base of the mountain that's great for mountain biking. That being said, if you are hiking or climbing near that trail, watch out this is a busy area. Wear a helmet so you won't get nailed by the falling junk, bottles and did I say junk?

Ok enough negative, Mt Erie does have climbing. There are several ways to go, one of which is done via Alpine Style, meaning 5th class, Trad, route finding through brush to the next wall. The best way to define Mt Erie climbing is, follow a trail, when it comes to an end, climb that wall, when you get to the top look for another trail, follow, when trail ends... you get the point. One of these shots is taken off one of those trails, another is a shot looking up at some of the rock you'll head up. There is a few places near the top to Boulder a bit, which is nice. Mt Erie is a beautiful place to go when you just want to poke around, not care what you climb, visit with friends, peeps passing buy with a great view of the Puget Sound. Also would be a fun place to learn climbing. Other ways are via some of the other main walls. These are good but can be a little over crowed on busy days.

Directions and location: Start diving up I-5 North out of Seattle, head toward Mt Vernon. Turn West on HWY 536 to Anacortes. At Dean's Corner, take a left stay on SR20, then a right on Campbell Lake Road, take the next right at Lake Erie store, and go about one mile to the park entrance. There is one road that leads all the way to the top but not much room for cars. Also make sure you are out of the park by closing or you will get locked in, closing is 10pm. I'm usually eating and looking for a place to crash by then but you might be a little different.

Exit 47/aka Fun Forest, Central I-90 Corridor

Notes: This is a handful of the routes that you see just off the freeway that you pass coming West bound on I-90. It's the stuff you see and say "DUDE I'm thinking someone should be climbing on that" or you might be wondering "how in the world you get in there"? You might need a brush  sometimes the routes are a bit dirty. Aside from the existing routes, there are plenty of new possibilities. Only down side is if I-90 is busy... it's kind of hard to hear your partner, but it's one of those things you just have to do. On a sunny day, this area is good to climb all year round. But because it is almost at the top of Snoqualmie Pass, it can be kind of cold during the winter months.

All I have to say is, fun short 5th class climbing. Most routes are great for top roping for the walls are only about 45 feet and under. Though some are not long, you get a bit of great crack work most routes are thin crack. There are only about 4 routes that are 5.7 - 5.9, otherwise they are all about 5.10+ - 5.12b. This would be a great area for those that are wanting to start to place pro Trad style. Nice routes, short walls, little less intimidating than the big walls. Also for those that are looking to create their own routes and wanting to try something a little new, check this out.

Directions to and location Exit 47/aka Fun Forest, Anne with an "E": is located about 45-50 minutes east out of Seattle. Take I-5 to I-90 east, follow to exit #47(Denny Creek/Asahel Curtis). Follow signs to Denny Creek Campground, about a miles off the freeway you will see a large game tunnel that goes under I-90. Park, go through the tunnel, it can be quite dark but the other side is quite visible. Bring a headlamp so if it gets dark while you are out there... you won't have to feel your way around. Fun Forest is just on the other side of the tunnel. Anne with an "E" is located just a few minutes up the hill from Fun Forest. Blondie Bluff is the one located right by the freeway, east of Fun Forest. Literally a couple of routes here... but if you are there, you might as well do it too, just to know that someone saw you climbing the rock just next to the freeway. It's always fun to mess with people a little. Trail map: Green Trails #207 Snoqualmie Pass, Wa.

Icicle, Leavenworth, HWY 2

Notes: Oh the Icicle. This is one of the most common hot spots for all Washington climbers. Don't worry though, there is plenty of climbing for everyone, just not necessarily enough camping spots. Hundreds of rocks just waiting for a send via Trad, Sport or Bouldering. Let us actually start this section by saying... there is a lot of killer climbing here in the Icicle. That being said... yes several of these routes have a few peeps hanging round to climb on them. That just means you have to be there earlier, or later, or just get creative when you go... like not at prime climb time, and hit the not so accessible areas. The great thing about the Icicle is that there could be 1,000 people climbing and you really don't run into any of them. There is much more here than anyone could climb in a lifetime (unless you are Fred Becky and his counterparts).

The Icicle covers walls ranging from 20 feet to Multi pitch. All climbing is on killer granite, with good solid holds and grit for grating your fingers. Unless you are use to climbing granite, you will want to make sure you bring your climbing tape an know how to make a good tape glove, you will find out quickly if you stink at it. Some of the classic climbs are; Outer Space, a multi pitch 5.9 on Snow Creek Wall, Givler's Crack on Givler's Dome, Careno Crag 5.10b (regular route), the Great Outdoors 5.10c on Goat Dome, Piranha 5.13a on Little Bridge Creek Rock. Midnight Rock, located about an hours hike from the road, this rock has some incredible Yosemite-like cracks to get in on. You are definitely high on this one. These rock contain some "old school" anchors, the bolts here date back to the 50's and 60's, so bring a full rack with you. Easy sport climbing... "NOT!", but for a good challenge, you will find it worth your while to play around these cracks. High class routes to hit: R.O.T.C.,***** Ultimate Leavenworth test piece, overhanging thin crack, pro to 2"5.11c, Spellbound **** 5.11d Awesome thin crack, pro to 1.

Ticks can be an issue early in the season, the largest rattle snake population in Washington state is in Icicle Canyon, so watch for rattlers in the cooler mornings after a  hot day. You most likely won't get bit, but you're bound to hear them and run into one sooner or later. Also, it can get hot as Hades over there though sandals are the approach shoe of choice, with snakes and poison oak... that might not be the best thing for your feet. Take plenty of water with you, other than the Icicle Creek, there isn't much water to pool from.

Directions and location: Head East on HWY 2 of of Seattle over Steven's pass to Leavenworth. Once you reach town you turn right at the gas station on the corner (the last time I was there is was a Chevron, now I know it's something else and I don't remember) but that is where you want to turn onto Icicle Road. Follow up into the canyon. Not too soon after crossing the river you will notice turnout spots on the roadside, start looking up... this is where the climbing begins. The further you travel into the Canyon... the more climbing awaits. Follow guide books for exact climbing areas.

Index, HWY 2

Notes: Where should we start, Index has BIG FAT WALLS. This place contains some of the best fine grain granite in the world. You can only find this granite here and one other area in the world, which I think is somewhere in China. So knowing you have the rare privilege of climbing on this rock ... impacts the experience even more. Index has been known as the Aid Climbing mecca of Washington. Very notable, beautiful Traditional multi-pitch climbing here in one of the most beautiful climbing areas around. You will find some bouldering to the west of the walls and some sport mixed in and all on the same beautiful rock. Index is not a big sport area, so if you love trad, come here, there is plenty of it. Index is noted for being a great place to go to when it rains, why... because it isn't in Index, it has its own weather system. July through September the weather pretty much never changes. No matter when you go, if you poke around a bit you'll find a dry spot and can pretty much climb here year round. The guide books are good for telling you which routes maybe a little wet and when. Some of the routes you can check on first for winter dryness are Iron Horse, City Park and Shirley.

Rock here in Index is solid, big, fun and lots of it. Index features some of the area's only 6 & 7 multi pitch crag climbing. Because you are in the heart of the Cascades the views and the surroundings are peaceful and calming to the soul. Due to the fact that it is mainly Trad climbing you have far less of a crowd waiting, plus you have 100's of routes to choose from. On the Lower Walls, Godzilla is among the classic **** routes it's a 3 pitch thin crack, layback, classic route, with both bolts & Trad protection necessary it's a 5.9 - 11a. Great Northern Slab good 3 pitch 5.0 - 5.7 fun thin crack Trad route. Also try 4 pitch Lizard Route a solid 5.8 Trad protection as well. If you want a little more the Upper Town walls contain your 7 pitch routes if that's what your looking for.

Directions and location: Index is tucked in a corner in the small town of Index Washington. Head East out of Seattle toward Monroe on 522, when you reach Monroe turn left and continue East toward Steven's pass on HWY 2 for about 21 miles. Turn left on Index-Galena Rd. This will take you into Index. Follow guide books for exact location of each wall. However with walls this big you can pretty much figure out where the climbing is when you look up.

Leavenworth Bouldering, Leavenworth Hwy 2

Notes: As is Leavenworth didn't already have killer crag climbing in the Icicle, they have fun fun Bouldering ta-boot! Multi areas, most classic areas I know of are the Beach, Swiftwater, the Fridge, Mad Meadows, Barney's Rubble, Mountain Home, Forestland boulders, Bolt Rock, Marley's boulders, and Clamshell Cave. Pretty much wherever you see a rock, someone has climbed it. There are some stones of choice that are located on private property, please beware of the signage and be respectful. Most people we've dealt with in the past and will let us climb on occasion, others if they say don't trespass... DON'T BE GOIN THERE.

Directions and location: Head East on HWY 2 of of Seattle over Steven's pass to Leavenworth. Once you reach town (which will take about 2 hours out of Seattle) you turn right at the gas station on the corner (the last time I was there is was a Chevron, now I know it's something else and I don't remember) aka Icicle Junction. Follow up into the canyon if you are going for the Icicle Bouldering. Not too soon after crossing the river you will notice turnout spots on the roadside, start looking up... this is where the climbing begins. The further you travel into the Canyon... the more climbing awaits. Follow guide books for exact climbing areas. If you want to find the Mountain Home Boulders come to Leavenworth the same a above but instead of turning at the gas station keep going through town. Just past the grocery store on your right will be Mountain Home Road, take it (to the right) out about a mile you will start running into the boulders, both sides of the street. If you are looking for 'Swiftwater' and 'the Beach' these will be located on your way into town when you first come to Leavenworth on HWY 2.

Mazama, NE Washington

Notes: This is beautiful Rhino right here. Some of the most lovely edges, crack, jugs and pockets you ever did see. There are only two places this occurs... North Bend (exit 32) and Mt Baring. Watch where you are treading! to get to this area you must go through private land, stay on trails only. The reason why TR is on several of these, is because it is definitely my first recommendation, after that... do as you wish. Mazama has a good long climbing season March through October, winters are very cold and snow prevents safe climbing (unless you are into that). Summers are rather warm, so climb early to escape the heat and bring your fluids. Watch for bugs bees (late summer nuisance be careful then) and rattlers... we have those here, usually if you stay away and respect their territory you'll be fine.

Bouldering Mazama, here are the names of the rocks you have to try if bouldering is your game, Pock Jock b11/12, Happy Crampers, b18 Concentration Cramps Otherwise if sport is your thang, Canine Crag: Bigwig **** 5.11c hanging arete, overhang, TR Margin of Air 5.11d, Killer 45 degree overhang, TR, Goat Wall 5 pitches to the Promised land, 50 meter works just fine and all draws, bolts are the pro ****5.10a/b. Fun Rock: They Might Be Giants 3 bolts, top is runny pro to 2"5.11b The Rhinozone: Sticks & Stones great crack, 3 bolts, pro to 3"5.10 a/b Dave's Direct 5.8+starts as 3 bolts, bring pro to 3" to finish, Wham jam thank you ma'am5.10b which is a jam-fest, pro to 2.

Directions and location: Head out HWY 20 over Washington pass to Mazama. Follow Lost River road about a mile or so, you will see cars parked or pullouts on the side of the road be careful that you don't block driveways locals don't care for that too much. Access is allowed by those peeps even though the rock technically belongs to the Forest Service, so make sure you STAY ON TRAIL. All the walls are within a couple miles driving distance of each other. Be watchful for deer especially when the night starts to set in... these guys are out in force, seriously!

Otter Falls, Middle Fork Road, off exit 32

Note: Otter falls is not a designated climbing area by any means, with that said... there exists climb-ability for those that venture to try. I happened to stumble upon this one day when I was out hiking with the geriatric crew in 2001. As we sat there, I was kicking myself hard for not bringing my climbing shoes, so I took a few shots and planned to come back for another stab at it. If you are up for the changing challenge this rock presents a beautiful route to the top where you will get the view of your life. Below are 3 shots of the wall/falls itself. Your job would be to smear your way to the top without getting wet. The angle of the wall isn't too severe (5th class at best), however you need to consider your landing and the size of the wall and the fact that it is totally unprotected.

The rock as you can see is totally solid, with a few spits of water as you climb. There is no walk off and no side trail, the way you go up is the way you come down. The last shot shown here is of a couple guys who decided to float around awhile, they will give you some perspective of the size of the wall. This would be ideal on a warm day. Considering the fact that this is a "waterfall" you will want to keep that in mind for the time of year you decide to climb and when the rains come and go. If you really want to make sure you get to climb this... wait for a good dry spell and a nice warm day (not hot) in the mid to late summer.

Directions and location: Travel down Middle fork road all the way at the end. Otter falls is a side trail off the main trail (about 2 miles in) on the north side of the trail. You take a short jaunt through the trees to get to the falls. Very nice well worth it this area is beautiful, even if you never climb the wall. Trail maps: Green Trails map trailhead on Mt Si #174 M9-K10 falls on Monte Cristo #143 C3050

Peshastin Pinnacles, Eastern Washington 

Notes: Here's a little Swauk Sandstone for ya. For those that have spent their day in the Icicle and need a little change in scenery, the sandstone here will give your granite tender fingers a bit of a break.  Most of these routes are bolted friction type sport and mixed protection slabs. 60 meters of rope and a small rack with cams and nuts to 2" is about perfect.

The area there can be quite warm, make sure you bring your water with you, walking back to the car to get it petty much just sucks. Because of it being all Sandstone you will want to take extra precaution due to crumbly walls. Some are just not worth the risk. Several 3 - 4 star routes also contain a skull and cross bones. And as time goes on this can continue to change. But don't let that discourage you, while some areas are flakey others are perfect intact climbs, but that's the nature of Sandstone, am I making any sense?...

Directions and location: Peshastin Pinnacles lay East of Leavenworth. Follow HWY 2 out of Seattle, in 2 hours you will reach Leavenworth, staying on HWY 2 and another 15 minutes+ you'll reach Peshastin. Pass HWY 97 (Blewett Pass) the Pinnacles are past the next small town of Dryden. The Pinnacles stick out of a hillside just out off North Dryden Road. You will see a parking area just below the Pinnacles.

Ramone Rock, HWY 2 - Stevens Pass

Note: This is one of those out of the way places that not many get to go to. There is plenty of discovery left on this big chunk of rock just off the hillside. This is a great place to get out of the car and shake the lead out on your way to the Icicle or on the way back. This area is located at the top of the Stevens Pass off of the small North side parking lot. You follow a dirt road past some buildings to a trail that leads up a ridge. The trail will take you to a little scramble to the cliff and away you go. Most of these routes can be top-roped but do as you will when you get there.

Routes vary and as of now there are about 20 or so of them. Some of the more difficult routes are 11a's then there's a bitty 5.0 and the like.

Directions and location: This one is a no-brainer, take HWY 2 to Steven's pass and you are there. Just park in the North parking lot near the dirt road. Trail maps: Green Trails #176 Steven's Pass and #144 Benchmark Mtn. This is one of those places that is right on the cusp of both maps.

Mt Si/aka Haystack Rock, Central I-90 Corridor

Mt Si is usually done as a very popular day hike or used for training for Mt Rainier. Mt Si is in itself a 3,500 ft trail hike over about 4 miles with 100 foot chunk of rock (Haystack rock) on the top. However, it can be done via the face which will take your 3 - 5 class or you can hike to the top with a rope and a few draws to climb Haystack, which can be done as a 3rd class scramble depending on the route you take.

Notes: Mt Si is a great way to keep in shape all year round. If you don't mind sticking on a pair or either instep or full crampons on you can climb it even in the winter. That tends to be even more fun. You might want to trade in your warm weather gear for a pair of ice tools if its in the middle of the winter... you might want them when you get to Haystack.

Taking a hike for a bit of 5th class will be a chunk of training. Hopefully you are ready for the 4 miles of hearty hiking with gear. The trail is mainly switchbacks and very well tracked. Once  you get to the top you will see all kinds of rock chunks everywhere, Haystack will be the largest of them just past where you think the top of the trail is. You will see a few bolts on the south side of Haystack. You can also climb up the back side for you 3rd class route to an incredible view. 

If you choose to go via the face going Alpine style, you will want to park in the Little Si parking area. The face route will take you out of that trailhead. Take a good rope, multi protection for this will be a trad route. As of this date I am unsure of any fixed pro on the face. If you look at the photo below, Haystack is the small chunk of rock at the very peak just to the right of center. The mountain itself as you can see has a great deal of potential, it just needs to be explored.

Directions to and location: of Mt Si/aka Haystack rock: Mt Si is located about 35-40 minutes east out of Seattle. Take I-5 to I-90 east, follow to exit #32 (North Bend) left off of exit, follow past outlet malls, turn right on North Bend Way (trailhead is about 2 miles out of town), follow through town to SW Mt Si road turn left. Follow crossing over the river and follow road, road will take a hard left follow another 1/2 mile, parking area is kind of hidden off to your left, watch for it, you'll find it. Take the trail up. Trail maps: Green Trails #206S Mt Si/NRCA, #206/Bandera, Wa or #174/Mount Si, Wa.

Stevenson Canyon boulders, West Fork Teanaway

Notes: Have you ever seen these boulders? Not many have, because they really haven't been discovered yet. These sandstone boulders are waiting to be discovered. I've been there, I know of 4 others but that is about it. If you are just waiting to get your hands on some new material... don't mind sandstone... poke around here.

Holy Suka, Moby Dick, Lost Me Head, and Quite Pointy n Parts are all the boulders listed below. There are several boulders in the outlying area that aren't quite so Scottishly named nor have I climbed them, Iz seen'em though! Most routes we've played on are slappy big grips, some are a little crumbly so watch your footing. Only a couple are walk-offable, otherwise a jump, drop or a good fall will be the only way off. Make sure you know how to get down once you get up. Rocks are kind of too high to just jump, don't get stuck, that... would suck.

Tumwater Canyon, near Leavenworth, HWY 2

Notes: Tumwater Canyon consists of 4 major areas Marley Crags, Midnight Rock, Swift Water picnic area and Raft Rock. For those that want quick road access as well as those that are a little adventuresome, you can find some quickies and some great trad, some of the best in the canyon. You will find some great bouldering in here as well.  Swift Water picnic area, Located about 7 miles west from Icicle junction on Hwy 2. You park where your car is 2 seconds away and so is 20 granite or basalt rocks to send. This is a great bouldering area, jump out of the car, grab your shoes and chalk bag and you can walk the whole circuit. This is a fun place to spend a warm afternoon because it's in among the trees and right next to the river. Marley Crags are made up of Chiwaukum schist which is like varnished sandstone but NOT as crumbly, these are visible from HWY 2. Here you will find a good variety of routes trad with sport ta-boot. Jupiter Rock and Waterfall Column is located up Falls Creek and Raft Rock is the marker for the creek.

Starting here with a no name rock, this guy contains a 5.11+, 5.11 and a 5.10. As you walk the circuit you will run into some of the following routes. Basalt Traverse which is a 5.10 in Hugs cave. Carefully cross Hwy 2 and hit a Royal Flush 5.10d, An off-width crack 5.8, and a 5.10 Dirty britches. Other great spots to hit in Tumwater Canyon; Rattlesnake rock, upper and lower Castle rock, Noontime rock, Punk rock, Honky's Lament and Tumwater Tower.

Directions and location: Tumwater canyon is on the Seattle side of Leavenworth. Follow HWY 2 out of Seattle, in 2 hours you are getting close Leavenworth, about 7 miles before Icicle Junction. Marley Crags are off the Hatchery Creek Road. A rest/parking area on the river side called Swift Water, this is where you want to park for some bouldering. There will be boulders everywhere. To cross the road you will find a trail in the parking area, follow it north till it reaches the street, the path picks up on the opposite side. Jupiter Rock and Waterfall Column is located up Falls Creek and Raft Rock is the marker for the creek.

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