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gone alpine

Alpine climbing

before you head out to get high, come here....

Alpine climbs are a different game than your comfortable crag. However if you are looking for a new place to go come up here and check out the view. Another place to check for some great crag climbing is crag hot spots.

Disclaimer

Alpine climbing while exciting and exhilarating, is in its all shapes and forms carries great Risk of injury or possible death. The information provided for you has the possibility of being inaccurate and you the climber is responsible for all personal property and personal injury to yourself as well as those with you. So please take all necessary precautions and avoid as much risk and unnecessary damage possible. Conditions change in weather, rock, your abilities and skills. Be mindful of all wildlife and vegetation, this is where they live. And please always remember...

Gravity only goes in one direction!

Also keep in mind that Alpine routes usually require more than a harness and a couple quick draws. Alpine routes require great skill, usually more than a full rack and confidence along with a skilled partner. Don't get caught off guard, the hospital is a little further away up in these parts, that's if you get there at all. 

The routes that are suggested are only that, you are responsible to plan your route precisely, the way we may go may not be the way you should. Be careful! Need help on training? click for info.

Alpine routes...

Definition: A alpine route requires much skill, knowledge, & confidence. Route finding & navigation are a must along with a skilled partner proper gear, protection and adequate supplies. Much of the time it requires over night approach hiking, sleeping or climbing. You must be in adequate physical condition to get to these places much less climb them. Out here there is no cellular phone coverage, forest ranger or hospitals close by. Be as prepared as you can be if you are undertaking such a route. On the positive side, you will see, feel and experience life in a whole new way, you will come back a different person.

<><><><><><><><> Local Alpine Trainer <><><><><><><><>

    Little Si though it be a short hiking trail for some, others of us have taken it to a different level. Many already know its fun 5th class climbing walls, others of us who were too tired of waiting for routes to come open decided to go another route, up the face, Alpine style. The face route can be a little tricky due to the year round moisture, shrubbery and difficult protection, which is much like Alpine routes. However the issues at the time, you can always find a way up, be it 3rd, 4th or 5th class. More photos click here, belay on.

    If you wish for a difficult but fun training route go for this. Gong only 3rd class (staying to the right) each lap will take about 45 minutes to round trip, depending on what you are training for usually 2 - 3 laps are good for a day. You take the regular Little Si trail up to the billboard and take a left up toward the first rock climbing area. Follow the steep walk-off trail up through the rocks and just head up anyway you can. There are many variations as to how to go, I honestly can say I don't think I've gone up the same way very often. Once at the top - brisk walk/jog/run down the back side through the trees along the regular trail will get you back to were you started. Once down... do it again. This particular day we went... we came back down a similar way we went up, got in a few fun/tricky rappels. The day usually ends with a well deserved Beer.

Alpine routes

Mt Index, Washington (Main peak) - 5.9 A3+, 5,991 summit elevation. HWY 2 toward Stevens Pass Central Cascades, near the town of Index. 4100 gain/summit elevation 5991/(Middle peak) summit elevation 5493/(North peak) summit elevation 5360/Cascades, off of HWY 2. First Assent on this was by Pete Doorish, Dale Farnham and Charles Hamson. Mt Index I do believe has the highest number of pitches on this site, all 23 of them. And some of them are upwards 150' so you'd be wise in bringing a long rope and some extra, there will be places on pitch 7 and 13 - 16 where you will want to fix a rope to assist in descent. Use much caution here, the peak is brittle and cracks are difficult to find. Early in the year avalanches are a regular occurrence. I'd make a scouting trip or two first, make sure you research this one well before heading out with all your gear this one is slightly intimidating.

• Approach - Follow Mt Index road to the end some of this will be on foot. The route won't take you long but with all your gear it isn't much fun either. The trail leads to Bridal Veil falls (WA), from here start up, the trail gets very steep in places but you will know you are on the right trail if it is. This trail will take you to lake Serene. From the lake you can't miss the mountain, the Norwegian buttresses are right in front of your face.

• Route itself - There is some fixed protection, but not much so make sure you bring all you need. You want to head up the left portion of the buttress where your first pitch reaches 100', the next two are a little shorter but not for long. By pitch 4 you will reach a good bivy ledge, get some rest if you can you still have a ways to go. Caution to be used with the anchors at the 7th pitch they suck, that is if they are still there. Pitch 9 provides you a great place for a hanging bivy then pitch 10, 12 - 14 reaches up about 150' each pitch. From there the remaining pitches are refreshing by comparison.

• Descent - Off the Main Peak is the best way down. Use caution especially after 14 pitches, the rock between the buttress and the Main Peak is crap and at about 5.6 you don't want to risk much. Rap off from here, hope you have good gloves.

North Face the Hexorcist, Mt Persis, Washington *** 5.10d C1, 5,464 summit elevation. HWY 2 toward Stevens Pass Central Cascades, few miles out of the town of Goldbar. The first Accent was made by Bryan Burdo and Bill Enger. However this mountain isn't climbed much, there is only one technical route that takes you to the top, the other is just a walk in the park. Our route has the more technical side.

• Approach - Is off of Hwy 2 take road 62 out to road 6220, not too far out you want to turn off on Spur road and take it out to the end. However most of the time this is all on foot. The gates are closed quite often right off the highway so prepare to pack it all in. It will take you a good 3 - 4 hours to get in there on foot, when it is open Oh praise the lord! (Needless to say winter isn't the best time to tackle this route.) Near the top of the West Ridge trail a ramp will take you down to a ledge that cross' under the North Face.

• Route itself - The route starts in the chimney crack right in the middle of the face, you can't miss it about 6 pitches will take you to the top. The second pitch is the crux of the climb due to the tight fit into an overhang. By the 5th pitch you are on a fat crack 2 - 4.5 inches of it. Then final pitch hangs left and continues up a chimney. 

• Decent - Rap back down the same way you just came up.

Liberty Bell, (B) Becky Route *** 5.6/7 - Washington Pass, NE Washington First Assent on this was made by Fred Beckey, Jerry O'Neil and Charles Welch. This is a very popular climb, try to do this mid week when the summer crowds are low. This is one of the best in the area, very fun and one of the easier ones to get your start on.

• Approach - Takes you about 1.5 hours from the Blue Lake trailhead which is one mile west of Washington Pass. Hike the trail till you reach the meadows just below the spires. During Spring and early in season you will want to bring an ice axe. Snow tends to hold out for a bit. Follow the climbers path to the left which will take you up toward some incredible slabs, cross the slabs which then can be taken directly toward your start.

• Route itself - Start just below the Liberty-Concord notch scramble ledges, about 50 feet left, then up a 5.0 - 5.3 section. This hits a ledge which works back right to a tree belay. Climb up to an obvious 5.6 chimney which heads for a ledge belay. P3 is great this leads up a slab to a small overhang with a fixed pin. Move left to the overhang and gain the right-facing corner crack above, cross over the slab around a little 5.6 exposure on the right. Scramble uphill passing a famous boulder problem slab and easy 4/5 climbing to the summit.

• Decent - the same way you came up.

Minute Man, East face *** 5.10b or 5.8 A1 Washington Pass, NE Washington First Assent on the Minute Man was Scott Davis and Bill Lingley. Most inspiring route. The summit is one of the more interesting views you will see. However it is one of the better routes of its class. There is a little crap to tangle with but the fun pitchess make it all worth the while.

• Approach - You can park at the pond just East of Washington Pass. The approach trail will take you about 1.5 hours to get to the base of the spires. During Spring and early in season you will want to bring an ice axe. Snow tends to hold out for a bit.

• Route itself - Starting with the left corner of the lower face you will climb several fun pitches. Try to avoid the crappy rotten crack to the right. There are a couple tense overhangs but aren't more than 5.8 themselves, they just look mean. The rock prior to the headwall is the more optional belay. Climb the more difficult crack on the route to an easier left facing corner that takes you up just below the roof. The next pitch is killer, one of the better in the area.

• Decent - This is a bit of down climbing and rapping off make sure your rope is long enough or use 2 ropes off the north toward the Concord - Liberty Bell gully.

Camp Muir **** SSSSS/ 4788 gain/elevation 10,188/Cascades, Mt Rainier National Park East, a stopping point to the summit of Mt Rainier, this is also known as the Skyline trail. This can be done in a good long day anywhere from 4 to 7 hours climb time. Elevation is an issue, drink lots of water. If there is snow on the fields, make sure you bring crampons and an axe as back up to whatever means of travel. The snow fields and weather change very rapidly, one day you start in deep powder snow, the next to sheer ice miles long.

• Approach - Starts out of Paradise at about 5,000 ft. If you head out in Summer you will be hiking along dirt and gravel goat trails until you reach the snowfield. If you are heading out in winter... usually there are marked and noted trails by other climbers  along the way. No matter what time of year you go, be prepared always for snow, ice and everything that comes with it. This is a very popular but more difficult climb you ascend 5,500 feet in a very short period of time, starting at 5,000 you quickly get into thin air. You will need to check in at the ranger station if you plan on camping at Muir over night or plan on going on the glaciers or above Muir, other wise you haven't needed one.

• Route itself - The route itself takes you up the breath taking route toward the beast itself. The trail takes off behind the Paradise Ranger station toward Alta Vista about .5 mile away. Next is Glacier Vista in 1.25 miles, Panorama Point in 2.5 miles. The rout to Camp Muir takes you up over Pebble Creek at about 7,200ft level. Then on to Moon rocks at 9,200ft level and then across the Muir snowfield which heads West of Anvil rock which is at 9,584ft. Then you will run into Camp Muir at 10,080ft which is 2.7miles from Panorama point. Most of this is snow covered year round be well prepared.

• Decent - Just head back the same way you came up. Make sure you start heading back down in plenty of time before dark. Even though you can see Paradise most of the time up and down, if you don't follow the marked path you won't land where you think you should, I've done that, NOT recommended and not planning on doing it again.

Mt Rainier SSSSS/9500 gain/technical/summit elevation 14,411/Mt Rainier National Park. Many make the mistake in thinking this isn't a big mountain. Mount Rainier is recognized world wide as a very mean large mountain. Tiz not to be taken lightly. Don't think for a minute that you can just go climb it, many every experienced climbers have recently lost their lives on Rainier because of its every changing weather systems and conditions. Note: Big mountains have their own weather system, so don't think that just because it looks like a nice day that it will stay that way. Make sure you rent a guide and/or only climb with those that know exactly what they are doing.

Northwest Corner, North Early Winter Spire *** 5.9 Washington Pass, NE Washington First Assent on the Northwest Corner was made by Paul Boving and Steve Pollock. The route is also referred to as the Boving-Pollock route. Paul Boving was one of the climbing pioneers back in the 70's. Tragically he died on one of his own routes in Index in 76. Credit goes to this man for setting many of the routes we climb in the Icicle, Index and many other areas. However this Spire is one fun route if you like big crack. The 3" crack in places is a bit unusual but solid and fun. You will need up to 4" pro to tackle this fat daddy.

• Approach - Takes you about 1.5 hours from the Blue Lake trailhead which is one mile west of Washington Pass. Hike the trail till you reach the meadows just below the spires. During Spring and early in season you will want to bring an ice axe. Snow tends to hold out for a bit. Follow the climbers path to the left which will take you up toward some incredible slabs, cross the slabs which then can be taken directly toward the North Spire.

• Route itself - Start in the lower left corner of the West face, head up the only crap on the route to the chimney. From there stay right unless you like cleaning chimneys. Head up some sort walls to a roof. From there go left around a large pillar and belay. Climb the dihedral left of the pillar until you can get on the flake/crack. There will soon be some 5.9 undercling exposed moves, tricky but fun. Next is when you have to shove yourself into the off-width crack on to a great corner. Alcove is a great belay spot, keep heading up the corner to the final stem. 5.0+ will take you to top out.

• Decent - Come down via the Southwest Chimney. Down climb and rap into the south nothch between the two spires, the climb down (class 2 in snow) to a chalkstone with a rappel bolt. This is an easy 50-60 meter rap which takes you to a spot which you can walk out the rest of the way.

Mt St Helens, Washington summit elevation 8,365, also see Alpine routes.  Mount St. Helens is a popular climb for both beginning and experienced mountaineers. Although people are able to climb Mount St. Helens year-round, late spring through early fall is the most popular season. Most climbers use the Monitor Ridge Route from Climbers Bivouac. This route gains 4,500 feet in five miles to the crater rim at 8,365 feet elevation. Although strenuous, this non-technical climb is suitable for people in good physical condition who are comfortable scrambling on steep, rugged terrain. Most climbers complete the round trip in seven to twelve hours. Ken, Bud, 2003

Permits are required above 4800 foot elevation on the volcano year round.  During the Nov 1 to March 31 winter climbing season permits are available at no charge by self-registration at the Climber's Register.  Climber's Register is located at the Lone Fir Resort, 16806 Lewis River Road, Cougar, WA.  (360) 238-5210. 2009 Climbing Permit Sales will begin on February 1, 2009: Permits for the April 1 through October 31 climbing fee season are sold online, in-advance on a first-come, first-served basis through the Mount St. Helens Institute. While climbing to the crater rim is permitted, entry into the crater is strictly prohibited. The crater rim is unstable and can collapse at any time. Cornices are unstable and prone to sudden failure.  Extreme caution is advised!  Do not approach the crater rim unless you can find a wind-scoured area where the surface of the rim is visible.  The crater rim is unstable and is subject to frequent rockfall and collapse. 

 The following places are under construction, if you have any beta you'd like to add please send it and help move things along.

Mt Baker  SSSSS/summit elevation 10,778/Cascades, Northern Washington state, just out of Bellingham.

Broken Top, Oregon summit elevation 9175,

Mt Jefferson, Oregon summit elevation 10497. One of the better approaches takes you along a common route, the South Ridge. This is one of the better routes for water and camp areas along the way. Any way of accent you have a 400ft pinnacle to reach the highest point. This climb is given one of the most difficult climbs in Oregon because of this 400ft peak, but let me tell you it is well worth the effort.

Mt Olympus SSSSS/summit elevation 7969/Olympic mountain range Washington coast. Long approach, wear separate approach shoes.

North Twin Sister, Oregon summit elevation 10085,

Middle Twin Sister, Oregon summit elevation 10047,

South Twin Sister, Oregon summit elevation 10358,

Mt Shuksan summit elevation 9127/Northern Washington state, just out of Bellingham.

Mt Stewart summit elevation 9415,

Mt Thielsen, Oregon summit elevation 9182,

The Tooth, Washington - 5.604 summit elevation.

Mt Washington, Oregon summit elevation 7794,

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