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the official unofficial Glossary

  Aid - The use of pitons, nuts, cams and other protection used while climbing.

Alpinism/Alpine climbing - Climbing which usually includes most forms of climbing from the bottom of a mountain to the top. An alpine climber does whatever it takes to reach the summit of a mountain or peak be it snow, rock or ice depending on the time of the year. Usually refers to those that climb in the higher mountain elevations and big mountain.

Altimeter - Barometer calibrated to read elevation, also used to help with weather predictions.

Altitude sickness - The result of not acclimating to altitude change. Can result in death when extreme. This can effect anyone, nobody is particularly hidden from this. Usually can be prevented when climbing at a reasonable rate, climbers conditioning levels are up and water drank regularly.

Anchor - A point of secure attachment to rock where ropes or slings can be placed.

Arete - A narrow vertical ridge of rock, ice or snow.

Avalanche - Snow in small to great amounts that slides down a hillside or steep terrain taking out whatever is in its way, from small animals to trees, house and you if you are in the wrong place. Something you don't ever want to get caught in. To read more about Avalanches click here.

Barn door - When the weight of the climber causes them to peal off the rock like an opening door. Most of the time resulting in a fall.

Belay - The technique of holding the rope in such a way that is able to arrest a fall while another is climbing.

Bearing - A compass direction which is used to navigate to a particular point of destination.

Beta - ANY information passed on for a route or climbing area. The person giving the advice  may think they are being helpful, but this is not always the case.

Big wall - A high, very long accent, technically demanding usually needing more than one day to complete the route. Resulting in sleeping on the wall and requiring much gear.

Bushwhacking - The ability to make a trail when there isn't one. For detailed information on this with tips and navigation ideas please read bushwhacking 101.

Bivy/Bivouac - Any time one finds themselves sleeping on a route or mountain. This may be an unplanned or intentional.

Bivy sac - Is a covering much like a tent just about the size of your sleeping bag. This is used in place of a tent, used to reduce weight when climbing longer routes that require sleeping on the mountain.

Bolt - Installed wedge anchor which is hopefully at least 3/8' in diameter. This is a permanent fixed piece in rock which provides protection for the climb route. Found mainly on sport routes.

Bombproof - Usually an anchor or belay which is a totally safe rock solid piece of work.

Bouldering - A place close to the ground to practice falling. When climbers aren't climbing, they like to sharpen their skills by bouldering on large rocks located in places frequented by impressionable tourists. Because bouldering is done without protection, the rule is never to climb higher than you'd like to fall. That is why so many climbers stand around discussing boulder problems instead of climbing them.

  Cam - Short for Camming device, which is a spring loaded piece of protection which provides  portable anchor for even difficult crack placements. Common used cams are "Friends", "Camalots", "TCU's", and "Aliens".

  Carabiner - Usually a 'D' or oval shaped metal device that has a gate on one side used to attach protection, ropes, or slings for any climbing purpose. These are extremely strong in nature and are very reliable source. There are several different types even those that 'lock' for added protection if need for security.

Chains - A chain is just that, a high-strength chain bolted in to provide an anchor for either belaying or rappelling. Commonly used for top-roping.

Chickenheads - 1) A large protruding piece of rock that provides excellent holds for feet and hands. . . most of the time looks something like a chicken head. 2) Also could be you at some point a climb.

Chimney - A fissure or part of a route that fits ones entire body requiring hand and foot techniques against opposite walls. Can be part of a route or the entire route, however a chimney is usually not able to be protected in itself, unless you are fortunate to have a "big bro" on with you.

Clean/cleaning - 1) Most commonly referring to the Second climber as they ascend the route they remove any protection placed as they climb up to the lead or anchor point. 2) This could also mean the act of removing moss or lichen off rock or a particular new route or one that is not climbed often.

Cliffhanger - 1)A movie that should never have existed. 2)NOT a port-a-ledge.

"Climbing" or "Climb on" - These are terms used between the climber and the belayer, the one actively climbing is informing the belayer that they are now going to actively move up the route. These second term, "climb on" is that of the belayer acknowledging the movement and stands ready for action. Both terms should be and are used 100% of the time by climbers.

Cornice - An over hanging mass of snow usually on a ridge, varying in size, not a reliable area to walk. Cornices are not always detectable, normally can be seen afar, but not while on top of them.

  Crag - A wall of rock for which to climb, usually containing one pitch or more.

  Crampons - Metal framed spikes worn on the bottom of full or 3/4 shank boots for added traction while climbing ice or hard snow.

Crevasse - A rather large split in a glacier most frequently hidden by snow, usually wider at the top and narrows toward the bottom. A crevasse can very in depth, some you will never find the bottom to. Crevasses are very dangerous if fallen into, most often resulting in death due to extreme cold, false bottoms or just because of the fall itself.

Crimper - A very small hold that is held by the very tips of ones fingers, can be very painful especially on sharp rock. Climbing on this type of rock for very long can render ones fingers feeling somewhat close to hamburger.

Crux - This is the most difficult part of the climb/pitch.

Drag - 1)Rope drag is unwanted friction in which the rope is being dragged over a rock or tree or some surface. This will cause damage to your rope or gear. 2) Also can refer to when rope is hung up on something during a climb, it tends to pull a climber back off the rock.

Dynamic belay - A belay technique where some rope is allowed to slip through the belay system in order to reduce the forces on a climber and belay points during a fall, that would mean that the one belaying is not anchored.

Elvis - This is either the King of Rock-n-Roll, or what you are when the strength of your legs isn't strong enough to hold you on a route long enough. Your leg usually will resemble the King while on a difficult route or while trying to set difficult pro.

FA - First ascent of a route, usually noted by a person or more.

FAA - First ascent of a route which usually includes aid moves.

  Figure 8 - A type on knot used to tie a climber on to the rope. Has been a very reliable knot used in climbing, does not come undone easily when tied correctly, but can be tricky to untie when a fall has been taken.

Fixed pin/piton - A piton left in place to be used as protection for a route.  These are at times left in place because a climber could not remove it when cleaning the route, many times these are not usually a reliable source of protection. If you see them either try to get it out, or pound the thing in as hard as you can so that it can be a more reliable source of protection.

Fixed rope - This is a rope that has been left on a section of a route which can be used later for either ascending or descending without having to re-climb the route. Sometimes these ropes are new and temporarily left sometimes they are permanent, make sure you check the condition of the rope before completely relying on it.

Flake - This is a thin piece of rock that lays on the top or protrudes from a main rock wall. A flake can be used by draping a sling over to add protection or can be suitable for a hand hold.

Flash - To 'onsite' a route with no rests or falls but with the advantage of beta or knowledge of crucial moves.

Free climb - A climb using only rock features for upward progress, usually a rope is used as a "backup" in case the climber should fall.

Free solo - Climbing a route without protection of any sort. However if the climber should fall it could lead to serious injury or death.

Grade - This reflects the difficulty level of the climb. US grade system rates for 5 class climbing (that is anything requiring a rope), measures from a 5.0 to a 5.14c. The additions of a, b, c, or d at the end of the numbering (such as 5.10a or 5.11c) indicate a more difficult route but not enough to reflect the higher number in scale.

Guide - 1) Usually referring to a climbing guide somewhere. It is usually nice to consult the books before heading out to the area so you are prepared with the proper gear. 2) A reliable person/group of people that leads you up a mountain trail. This person has prior knowledge and quite a bit of experience in the area where you are going.

  Harness - A massively strong waist belt with leg hoops which is worn by the climber and belayer while actively on route. Most of the time just a typical waist harness is worn, however a fully body harness is used at times, mainly for children.

Hanging belay - A belay point usually hanging from slings or chain at a point of the route where no belay station or landing is available. You will see this many times on a multi-pitch route.

  Hexes - A Hexagon shaped piece of metal varied in size, on a cable or small rope which on a traditionally climbed  route where cracks are a little larger and require larger protection along a route. Can also be used to support a belay anchor.

Haul bagging - 1) When climbing big wall once 'haul bags' his equipment up the wall instead of climbing with it on his person.  2) A term used usually to describe when the belayer is pulling the climber up the route.

  Ice screw - A metal screw that is hammered or screwed into ice to anchor protection or to be used for belaying a climber.

  Ice fall - A frozen waterfall, usually suitable for climbing.

  Jumar - The original brand name of an ascender, a metal toothed device which clamps onto the rope, used only in ascending a rope, suitable for climbers or haul bagging gear.

Layback - A term used in describing a technique in climbing where the climber has his hands and feet closer and weight over his back side providing counter force.

List - A list consisting of needed equipment for whatever sport you are taking on, these are usually needed for long term use or overnight purposes. Examples of some are as follows; hiking, backpacking (including heat & snow), mountain biking/trail riding, and others.

  Locking carabiner - Usually a 'D' or oval shaped metal device that has a gate on one side used to attach protection, ropes, or slings for any climbing purpose. These are extremely strong in nature and are very reliable source. Just like regular carabiners there are several different types these however 'lock' for added protection and needed security.

  Micro-climbers - These would be da childrens... For tips on hiking with your kids click here.

Mixed route - 1) This is when a route has both bolts and needs additional traditional protection. 2) Or when a route has one or two of these; ice, snow or rock.

  Natural pro - This is protection that is placed by the lead and cleaned by the second, using no predrilled bolts, leaving the rock pure and undefiled.

Nose - A protruding mass of rock, usually looking like a nose.

  Nut - Wedge or irregular shaped pieces of metal on a cable or small rope which provides protection on a traditional climb where cracks taper along a route. These tend to be much smaller in size than the Hexes. Can also be used to support a belay anchor.

Nuts plural, 1) Multiple wedges or small irregular shaped pieces of protection 2) Something guys are very protective of 3) and what you have to be, to do some of the climbing and riding out there.

"Off belay", "belay off" - Terms used between the climber and the belayer. "Off belay is called by the climber when they no longer are of need of the belayer, but when they are in a safe area free of a fall. The second term "belay off", is the acknowledgement of the belayer to the climber that they are indeed free of the rope and off belay. The later of the two should not be called until the rope is completely free of the belayer, this is so that the climber is free to pull the rope or manipulate it as needed without it being caught or attached to any equipment.

"On belay", "belay on" - These are terms used between the climber and the belayer. The first is asked by the climber to the belayer if they are 100% ready to belay them. The second term "belay on" is the acknowledgement of the belayer to the climber that they are 100% ready. If for any reason the belayer is not 100% ready the answer should be "no", and the climber will not move toward the route.

Off-width - Usually a crack that is too small for the body but to big for a fist or foot hold. Most times very difficult to protect, and tricky to climb.

On-site - This is when a climber walks up to a route and just does completes the route without any prior knowledge of the route. No beta is given or help of any kind other than a belay.

Pink-point - A climb where the leader has previously climbed on the route before ascending it without falls, using pre-paced quick draws as they climb.

Pitch - A section of rock or ice which is climbed between two major belay points. Usually a pitch stops at a suitable anchor ledge.

  Piton/Peg or Pin - A metal spike or wedge with an attachment eye for a carabiner that is hammered into small cracks or crevices and used for protection. These are usually cleaned by the second climber and are used temporarily. Occasionally they have been hammered to far in and become a fixed piece of protection on the route.

Port-a-ledge - A beautiful piece of flat equipment that is approximately 3x4 feet in size that is anchored to the rock face allowing the climber(s) to use for resting/sleeping while on a bigwall climb. As it is called a portable ledge, and that is what it is.

Post-holing - Not usually recommended whenever possible. This is where your leg plunges through the snow leaving a nice hole that is possible for placing a fence post. This is also done at times when descending a mountain at quick speeds and when you are out of control, this can result in bodily damage.

Protection - Usually removable gear, cams, nuts, or the like used on a route. Can also be noted as fixed bolts or anything used to secure a climber on a route.

  Quick draw - This is a piece of protection equipment consisting of two carabiners connected with a small piece of webbing. Used while leading a route. One end clips into the protection on the rock the other end the rope runs through.

  Rack - Consists of protection carried on a climb. A standard rack consists usually of one of everything (nuts&/or cams in various sizes, a number of quick draws and extra carabiners, etc.). A full rack consists of twice that.

  Rapping/rappelling - This is a technique used when the climber is descending a route by use of his own device, usually an ATC.

Red point - A climb where the leader has previously climbed on the route before ascending it without falls, placing all gear as they climb. Usually a term only used when sport climbing.

Rhino/Rhinostone - Usually volcanic origin. The rock is a heat-metamorphosed rock which is usually very hard, highly featured and can be brittle. The Cascades' equivalent to limestone in climbing style, but with a little nastier undertones.

  Rock shoes/boots - Tight, light weight shoes or boots that have a sticky high-friction rubber sole, used when climbing technical rock.

Roof/ceiling - This is a large horizontal area of overhanging rock.

Route - a direction either up a mountain or in particular rock or ice. Most discovered rock routes have been given a name or number in some climbing guide somewhere. It is usually nice to consult the books before heading out to the area so you are prepared with the proper gear.

  Runner - Either the use of secured webbing in making a point of protection consisting of carabiners and a sling to protect a fall. The webbing used on a runner is usually longer than that of a quick-draw.

Runout - This is in reference to long stretches of a route that lack protection of any sort, or protection is very sketchy. Not usually to fun to see, if one should fall it could lead to serious injury or worse.

  Second - This would be the number two climber, the one that trails the lead. This person is responsible for cleaning the route when necessary.

Slab - A large area of off-vertical rock most often not having features. Better climbed with balance and counter techniques.

"Slack" - A term called by the climber that he/she needs more rope.

Smearing - This is the position of footing when the climber maximizes the amount of friction he has on the rock.

  Sport route/climbing - This is when a person is on a pre-protected route, usually consisting of bolts and anchor points, the only protection necessarily used are quick-draws.

Solo - The act of climbing by ones self. Protecting the route and providing all necessary functions on ones own. Also see Free solo.

"Take" - A climbing call when climber wants the belayer to "take" all the slack out of the rope.

Technical climbing - The complex and difficult climbing associated with 5th class climbing. This is where the climber needs to use thought, skill and protection to climb a given route.

TR/top roping - When a climber uses an upper anchor point to loop the rope through prior to climbing the route.

Trad/Traditional climbing - A form of climbing using removable protection only. Nothing is left permanently in place on the rock. The first climber places pro and is then cleaned by the second.

Traverse - Any time one moves sideways or diagonally on a given climb or hike.

UIAA - Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme, in other words  the governing body of international climbing guides.

UIAGM - Union Internationale des Associations des Guides de Montagne - these are those of the association of international climbing guides.

Wall - A vertical piece of crag, rock, ice or mountain face with a very steep angle, one that will require equipment and technical technique to get over.

  Wind chill factor - The effect of wind in a dissipating heat from the body, this has an effect of lowering effective temperature below the actual air temperature.

Vegan - A vegan (pronounced Vee-Gun) is someone who avoids using or consuming animal products. While vegetarians avoid flesh foods, vegans also avoid dairy and eggs, as well as fur, leather, wool, down, and cosmetics or chemical products tested on animals.

Vertical limit - Another movie that should never have existed.

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